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FAQs

I have more questions about Araldite®. Where do I go?

Our full-time, in-house technical team are here to help. Simply go to ‘Contact us’ and they’ll be happy to support you with any further queries.

Is Araldite® safe to use?

Yes, it is. All Araldite® adhesives are safe when handled according to the instructions written on the pack. It’s always best to work in a well-ventilated area to avoid potentially inhaling fumes. Wear protective gloves/ eye protection/ face protection.

First aid

If skin irritation or rash occurs: Get medical advice/ attention. Make sure you have the product container or label to hand.

How do I remove residues when dry?

For Araldite® epoxy adhesives, remove cured residues or excessive adhesive by immersion in commercial paint strippers, such as nitromors or multistrip. These are available from most retail paint suppliers.

Please note, joints may break by being soaked in these chemicals for periods of up to 24 hours depending on width and thickness.

You can obtain details for the use and safe handling of paint strippers from the manufacturer.

How do I get the best curing results?

As well as following your Araldite® pack’s guidelines, there are a number of things you can do to get the best results for your epoxy during curing time. These include:

Check your resin and hardener ratio

Use equal amounts of epoxy resin and hardener. Too much or too little hardener will affect the cure time and thoroughness of the cure. If this happens, remove the uncured epoxy and do not apply additional material over non-curing epoxy. Do not add extra hardener for a faster epoxy cure.

Check the temperature

You need to allow extra time for epoxy to cure in cool weather. If the temperature is too low, apply heat to maintain the epoxy’s chemical reaction and speed up curing.

Blend the resin and hardener thoroughly

For best results, you need to mix the resin and hardener thoroughly for an even ratio during application. If this hasn’t happened, remove the uncured epoxy. Don’t apply additional material over non-curing epoxy. And see clean up or removing residues when dry.

If the surface of the cured epoxy remains sticky, it does not necessarily mean the adhesive is not fully cured. Under certain conditions, the hardener can react with carbon dioxide in the air and leave a sticky layer on the surface. Normally, this layer can be easily removed with a wet cloth.

 

How long does Araldite® take to set?

All glues have a period over which the “bond” strength increases to its maximum – even superglues or instant glues. Check your pack for details and do not use what you’ve repaired or made before the time listed. It might not be safe.

Is there a recommended amount of glue to use?

Yes. Always follow the instructions on your Araldite® pack. Please note, using more glue than recommended doesn’t help with adhesion and may not produce a neat finish. Make sure you also check whether you should be applying to one surface or both. In general, the thinner the joint line, the higher the strength.

What materials does Araldite® work with?

Our adhesives are compatible with almost all materials, including wood, metal, masonry, glass, ceramics, dry concrete, chipboard, leather, cardboard, fabric, rubber and most plastics (except polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon®). Check each product description for more detail.

Is Araldite® safe with food?

No. Do not handle or consume food with or when using Araldite®.

Is Araldite® heat resistant?

Most of our adhesives can withstand between -30°C and 80°C. Araldite® Metal can withstand between -30°C and 10°C. And Araldite® Repair Putty can withstand between -40°C and 120°C.

Is Araldite® waterproof?

Yes, it’s water resistant and rust resistant too.

What’s the best way to prepare surfaces before application?

It’s always important to prepare surfaces whether you’re bonding, fairing or applying fabrics with epoxy. For all types of bonding jobs, follow these three key steps:

Step 1: Clean

Make sure your surfaces are free of any contaminants such as grease, oil, wax or mould. Clean contaminated surfaces with lacquer thinner, acetone or another appropriate solvent. Then wipe the surface with paper towels before the solvent dries. Check the surface is clean before sanding. Follow all safety precautions when working with solvents.

Step 2: Dry

All surfaces must be as dry as possible for good adhesion. You can quicken drying by warming the bonding surface with a hot air gun, hair dryer or heat lamp. Use fans in enclosed spaces. Watch out for condensation when working outdoors or whenever the temperature of the work environment changes.

Step 3: Sand

Before applying epoxy, sand smooth, non-porous surfaces – thoroughly abrade the surface. 80-grit aluminium oxide paper will provide a good texture for the epoxy. Make sure the surface is solid. Remove any flaking, chalking, blistering or old coating before sanding. Remove all dust after sanding.

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